Moving Towards Completion

After getting a bit sidetracked by a 30s dress (more on that later) I returned to the bustle.

The rivets and the bone worked better then expected, keeping it easy to ensure evenness throughout, and I was able to keep the waistband very adjustable. So even if it doesn't get worn with its pretty corset it should fit most bodies. An odd side effect of having everything come from the same bone is that it significantly decreased the odds of the bustle shifting. The butt of whoever is wearing it simply gets encased in bustle, oddly comforting whoever puts it on. (This is literally what every single person has exclaimed while wearing it.) Perhaps this explains why women were so attached to the fashion. The end silhouette puts this corset and bustle firmly at the tail end of the 2nd bustle period. With the bustle riding very low over the hips with that nice 90 degree jut from the back. Still no springs attached, they are currently being stress tested.

On to the petticoat!

Since the canfield bustle ends just above the knee it was important to build the petticoat in a way that prohibited it from collapsing in on itself once the bustle ended. For comforts sake it also needed to begin at the waist, whereas the bustle could hook and eye comfortably at the back of the corset, the petticoat needed to support its own weight, or at least have its own spot to rest. All this resulted in the back being cut in three pieces and put into a yoke. with the bottom of the petticoat gathered to create a natural kick.

But what about the ruffles?

Well convenient subheading, the ruffles needed to be made of something sturdy and light. Since they are that bit off fluff required to really bring out the largeness of the time. Epi-something worked amazingly, though I bought so much I'm afraid to look at the receipts. The wonderful thing about bustle ruffles is that you can pin them where you like and take a step back, the terrible thing about bustle ruffles is that you always want to add more. Which results in a weird dance of "does this make it look like a tree or terrible mushroom?"

What happens when you are close but too far

Pictured: what happens when you go to far. 

I eventually did find a nice balance, though I had to go buy more lace several times. (fun fact: more ruffles are always better) And after doing a quick hem check on my good friend Ellen (once again, website soon to come) I realized I had misplaced the second ruffle down, it's too low!

Luckily this is an easy fix, if I pull it about 1 1/2" up in the middle it will sit along the proper bone and flare out like the top ruffle. And I'll totally be getting right on that  as soon as I return from summer work. Note to self: this is why you don't sew past midnight!

Still though, she does make one pretty lady.